Volumes have been written about Turkish coffee—its history, its significance in social life, and the atmosphere of the ubiquitous coffeehouses. Without some understanding of this background, it is easy to be disappointed by the tiny brew with the annoying grounds, upon which an uninitiated traveler (like Mark Twain) may accidentally end up chewing. A few words of caution will have to suffice for this brief introduction. First, the grounds are not to be swallowed, so sip the coffee gingerly. Second, do not expect a caffeine surge from one cup of Turkish coffee—it is not “strong” in the way an espresso is, just thick. Third, remember that it is the setting and the company that matter most; the coffee is simply the excuse for the occasion.
Tea, on the other hand, is the main source of caffeine for most Turks. It is prepared in a distinctive way, brewed in a double teapot (çaydanlık) over boiling water and served in delicate, small clear glasses that show off its deep red color and keep it hot. Drinking tea is such an essential part of the working day that any disruption of the constant supply of fresh tea is a sure way to cripple productivity.
There is a famous joke that illustrates this: Once upon a time, a lion escaped from the Ankara Zoo and took up residence in the basement of a government office building. It began devouring public servants and executives. It even ate a few ministers of state, and nobody took notice. But a posse was immediately formed when the lion caught and ate the “tea man”—the person responsible for the supply of fresh tea.
A park without tea and coffee is inconceivable in Türkiye. Every scenic spot has a tea house or a tea garden (bahçe). These may be under a plane tree facing the village square, on a hilltop with a majestic view of a valley or the sea, by the harbor, in the market, on a roadside with a panoramic overlook, by a waterfall, or deep in the woods.
Among Istanbul’s most beloved tea gardens are Emirgan on the European side, Çamlıca on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, the famous Pierre Loti café in Eyüp, and the tea garden in Üsküdar. However, the traditional tea houses are beginning to disappear from the more tourist-oriented seaside locations, giving way to modern pubs and beer gardens.
Among the beverages worth mentioning are excellent bottled fruit juices. But perhaps the most distinctive drink is boza, traditionally sold by neighborhood street vendors on winter evenings. This is a thick, fermented drink made from wheat or bulgur, enjoyed with a sprinkle of cinnamon and a handful of roasted chickpeas. Boza is one of the oldest Turkic beverages, with roots stretching back to Central Asia. In Istanbul, the most famous purveyor is Vefa Bozacısı, a shop that has been in operation since 1876. Boza can also be found year-round at certain cafés and dessert shops.
Finally, salep is a hot winter drink made with milk and salep powder, which is derived from the tubers of wild orchids. Rich and warming, it is a traditional remedy for sore throats and colds, and it is delicious in its own right.